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Calatrava Volutes and Arabesques in Platinum

Patek Philippe

Calatrava Volutes and Arabesques in Platinum

CHF 65 000

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DETAILS

Patek Philippe’s decorative watches from the Rare Handcrafts collection very often fall into the “unattainable” category. Production of such models is limited and distribution is usually very selective, which is why they are rarely found on both the primary and secondary markets. Furthermore, Patek Philippe decorative watches are generally produced as one-off editions, and only extremely rare references remain in production for several years. One of these “continuous” models is this Calatrava Ref. 5088/100P-001, also known as the “Volutes and Arabesques”. Patek Philippe launched this reference in 2015 and it is still available in catalogs and on the website, although annual production is very limited.

REASONS TO BUY

This Calatrava Ref. 5088/100P-001 “Volutes and Arabesques” in platinum is a rare, impressive and valuable representative of the coveted Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts collection. The main feature of the design of this watch is the use of a black and white color scheme that is esthetically restrained but extremely attractive through the use of contrasting rococo-style engravings. The elaborate and meticulous decorations include black enamel using the champlevé technique and engravings that adorn not only the gold dial but also the caseband. The watch is given the finishing touch by the buckle on the strap, which is engraved in the same style.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

Patek Philippe highlights the second source in its 2012 Rare Handcrafts catalog, using the name “Firearms Decorations” in the description of the Calatrava Ref. 5088P-001. Apparently, it was this watch that marked the beginning of the use of the characteristic combination of relief engraving “volutes and arabesques” and black grand feu enamel in Patek Philippe watches. Technically, this combination refers to the champlevé technique, in which areas of the metal surface are left open during the enameling process – here, these open areas of the dial, which is a gold plate, are additionally engraved. The characteristics of this decoration technique chosen by Patek Philippe are the use of black enamel and the engraving of the “volutes and arabesques” motif. This technique is also used to decorate the caseband, although the buckle of the strap is only decorated with an engraving. After the Ref. 5088P-001, this type of decoration was also used on the Calatrava Ref. 5088/100P-001 “Volutes and Arabesques” in platinum (this watch), in the limited-edition Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50P-001 in platinum from 2018, created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Golden Ellipse design, and then in the unlimited edition Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/51G-001 in white gold, launched in 2021. It is noteworthy that, in addition to the general decorative technique, all these editions are linked by the use of the ultra-thin caliber 240 with automatic mini-rotor winding. This caliber was a remarkable achievement by Patek Philippe when its production began in 1977. With a diameter of only 27.6 mm and a slender height of 2.53 mm, it was one of the thinnest automatic movements of all time. The high quality of design and workmanship was initially confirmed by the Poinçon de Genève seal of quality and since 2009 by the Patek Philippe seal, as in the case of this watch. The caliber 240 was used by the brand as a pure time-only movement in the slender Calatrava, Nautilus, Golden Ellipse and some ladies’ watches, but also as the basis for complications, particularly for Patek Philippe’s famous perpetual calendars. Here, in the Calatrava Ref. 5088/100P-001 “Volutes and Arabesques”, the future owner will enjoy the caliber in its purest form, in a two-hand version, with beautifully beveled bridge edges, polished countersinks for the jewels, pins and screws, mainplate with finely executed perlage decoration, a crisp but subtle Côtes de Genève motif on both the bridges and the 22-carat gold micro-rotor, which also features a deeply engraved Calatrava cross.