IN ASSOCIATION WITH Ineichen AUCTIONEERS AND
Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants
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The early releases of the Geneva watch brand Roger Dubuis, founded in 1995, are attracting more and more attention from experts and the collector community. The brand was created by its founders to produce high-quality wristwatches in the tradition of Geneva watchmaking, which is most convincingly embodied by the old Patek Philippe watches, and this applies not only to the appearance of the watches, but also to the high-quality execution of the calibers. The founders had good reasons for choosing this starting point. Mr. Roger Dubuis worked for 14 years in the high complications workshops at Patek Philippe and therefore knew the most attractive aspects of the great brand’s heritage, which were not always and not fully realized in the current Patek Philippe collection. Carlos Diaz, the second founder of the Roger Dubuis brand, also had experience in dealing with the historical design heritage, key elements of which were stylistically implemented in watches from the Franck Muller brand, for which Carlos Diaz worked before joining the Roger Dubuis project.The present example, a very rare, fine and early limited edition white gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar and chronograph, belongs to the heritage of the early Roger Dubuis with a classic round design case, a decorative mother-of-pearl dial and a high-quality hand-wound caliber RD5632, which is hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève and having passed the chronometric certification in Besançon, i.e., it is a chronometer, i.e. in terms of level, caliber and performance it was similar to a perpetual calendar and chronograph Patek Phillippe Ref. 3970 and 3971.Notable for the early Hommage collection timepiece is the distinctive design of the 12-sided screw-down caseback, engraved with the brand name “Roger Dubuis horloger genevois” and a garland motif, while the round sapphire window bears the brand's laser-engraved RD monogram. These are the characteristic features of the second-generation Hommage models (Mk2).
This Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph belongs to the brand's early period, the most promising and attractive for collectors. This is because the watches of the early period were produced in very small numbers, usually in a limited edition of 28 pieces (like this watch) and with a case made of precious metal, mainly rose gold or white gold. Furthermore, the early period watches are most influenced by the style, the sense of tradition and the high level of craftsmanship that Mr. Roger Dubuis brought to the brand and which enabled it to quickly gain popularity and prestige among collectors. The present Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph has all these precious qualities.
The caliber RD5632 is based on the Nouvelle Lémania 2310 movement-blank. The 2310 was originally developed in 1942 in the Lémania movement factory by Albert-Gustave Piguet as caliber 27 CHRO C12 on behalf of Omega. Later, in 1949, it was designated Caliber 321 by Omega and reused for the development of the Speedmaster chronograph, commonly known as the “Moonwatch”. In the 1980s, this caliber appeared in the high-end chronographs of the Breguet brand, which was revived by Chaumet. From 1986, this movement-blank was adopted by Patek Phillippe, which initially used it in perpetual calendar chronograph watches, notably in the famous Ref. 3970 and 3971. The caliber was also used by other well-known watchmakers such as Vacheron Constantin. Mr. Roger Dubuis undoubtedly gained a great deal of experience with this movement, which he later incorporated into the development of his brand’s chronographs and complications based on this movement.
The caliber RD5652 is built to a high standard and has many technical features similar to those of Patek Phillippe, such as the distinctive column wheel cap. The movement is adapted to the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève seal of quality. It is believed that the adjustment of the movement for chronometer certification at the Besançon Astronomical Observatory, which sets far more demanding standards than an examination by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC), was carried out personally by Mr. Roger Dubuis. This fact is indicated by the signature “Bulletin d’Observatoire” on the dial.
All parts of the movement are hand-finished and bear the obligatory hallmarks of the Geneva watchmaking tradition prescribed by the Poinçon de Genève. These include a swan-neck micrometer regulator, a Breguet hairspring with a Geneva-style attachment system of an external coil of hairspring, and Haute Horlogerie finishes such as chamfering, polishing, Côtes de Genève, perlage and rhodium plating for the bridges and mainplate. The steel parts of the chronograph mechanism are straight grinded and finely beveled.
The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar module RD5652 was developed with the direct involvement of Mr. Dubuis. In the late 1980s, he collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the renowned movement designer and manufacturer, to develop the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar watch on behalf of Harry Winston. Thanks to this module, with its characteristic retrograde date and day indications, Roger Dubuis was able to offer its customers a new variation on the classic combination of two complications, with a striking dial design reminiscent of a butterfly's wings.
|White gold 750/1000 case, with a open caseback & round chronograph pushers, crown at 3 o'clock
|Leather strap with a white gold 750/1000 original pin buckle
|Mother of pearl dial with a outer railway minute track, a 4 year & month indication at 12 o'clock, 30 minutes counter & retrograde date indication at 3 o'clock, moonphase at 6 o'clock & the small seconds with a retrograde day of the week indication at 9 o'clock
|Rhodium plated, Geneva striped & perlaged hand-wound column wheel chronograph movement, with a Breguet hairspring, a swan neck fine adjustment & a perpetual calendar complication
|Good, signs of wear
|Very good, only small signs of wear
|Very good, all functions working properly
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If ordering from Switzerland or Europe, your watch will be sent the same working week. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working week.
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All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards.
Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new.
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