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Roger Dubuis

Hommage Perpetual Calendar CHF 29 500

DETAILS

The early releases of the Geneva watch brand Roger Dubuis, founded in 1995, are attracting more and more attention from experts and the collector community. The brand was created by its founders to produce high-quality wristwatches in the tradition of Geneva watchmaking, which is most convincingly embodied by the old Patek Philippe watches, and this applies not only to the appearance of the watches, but also to the high-quality execution of the calibers. The founders had good reasons for choosing this starting point. Mr. Roger Dubuis worked for 14 years in the high complications workshops at Patek Philippe and therefore knew the most attractive aspects of the great brand’s heritage, which were not always and not fully realized in the current Patek Philippe collection. Carlos Diaz, the second founder of the Roger Dubuis brand, also had experience in dealing with the historical design heritage, key elements of which were stylistically implemented in watches from the Franck Muller brand, for which Carlos Diaz worked before joining the Roger Dubuis project. The present example, a very rare, fine and early limited-edition white gold wristwatch with perpetual calendar, belongs to the heritage of the early Roger Dubuis with a classic round design case, a classic yet spectacular black dial and a high-quality self-winding caliber RD5739 hallmarked with the Poinçon de Genève and having passed the chronometric certification in Besançon, i.e. it is a chronometer, which is very convincingly confirmed by our measurements of the rate accuracy of this watch. In terms of level of finish, caliber and performance, this watch most closely resembles the perpetual calendar Ref. 2497, which was produced by Patek Phillippe from 1951 to 1963. It has the same complications, namely a double window with the month and day of the week at 12 o'clock, a central seconds hand and a moonphase and date pointer on the sub-dial at 6 o'clock. The main differences between the Hommage Perpetual Calendar and the Ref. 2497 are a self-winding movement and a spectacular version of the classic perpetual calendar dial design. Instead of one sub-dial at 6 o'clock, Roger Dubuis has used two, the date at 4 o'clock and the moonphase at 8 o'clock - giving the watch a completely different character. At the same time, the applied Arabic Breguet numerals, which are known to adorn the dials of many fine Patek Philippe watches, seem like an excuse for this free variation on the classic design. The leap year cycle is indicated by four colors in an aperture at 3 o’clock. Red stands for the leap year, yellow for the first year, green for the second and blue for the third year of a cycle. The perpetual calendar module for RD5739 was developed at the end of the 1990s by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the renowned movement designer and manufacturer, for Roger Dubuis. Thanks to this module with its characteristic display layout, Roger Dubuis was able to offer its customers a new take on the classic perpetual calendar wristwatch. A notable feature of the early timepieces in the Roger Dubuis Hommage collection is the distinctive design of the 12-sided screw-down caseback, engraved with the brand name “Roger Dubuis horloger genevois” and a garland motif, while the round sapphire window bears the brand's laser-engraved RD monogram. These are the characteristic features of the second-generation Hommage models (Mk2).

REASONS TO BUY

This Hommage Perpetual Calendar belongs to the early period of the brand, which is the most promising and attractive for collectors. This is because the watches of the early period were produced in very small numbers, usually in a limited edition of 28 pieces (like this watch) and with a case made of precious metal, mainly rose gold or white gold. Moreover, the watches of the early period are most strongly characterized by the style, sense of tradition and high level of craftsmanship that Mr. Roger Dubuis brought to the brand and which enabled it to quickly gain popularity and prestige among collectors. This Hommage Perpetual Calendar possesses all these valuable qualities.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

The caliber RD5739 is based on the Nouvelle Lémania 8815 movement-blank, better known as the Longines 990 (original designation) or Breguet 591 (later designation). The 990 was originally developed in the 1970s as an ultra-thin self-winding caliber with a double barrel and low tension, which the designers believed would significantly reduce wear. Due to its high cost, the caliber 990 was rarely used by Longines, and in the 2010s, the brand eventually abandoned it in favor of Breguet to avoid ambiguous positioning of this high-end movement. It is unlikely that Mr. Roger Dubuis chose the caliber 990 as the basis for many of the self-winding references in his brand’s collection by chance, as he worked at Longines early in his career before landing at Patek Phillippe. The caliber RD5739 is built to a high standard and adapted to the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève seal of quality. It is believed that the fine-tuning of the movement for chronometer certification at the Besançon Astronomical Observatory, which sets far more demanding standards than the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) test, was carried out personally by Mr. Roger Dubuis. This fact is indicated by the “Bulletin d’Observatoire” signature on the dial. All parts of the movement are hand-finished and bear the obligatory hallmarks of the Geneva watchmaking tradition prescribed by the Poinçon de Genève. These include a swan-neck micrometer regulator, a Breguet hairspring with a Geneva fixed stud holder of an external coil of hairspring, and Haute Horlogerie finishes such as chamfering, polishing, Côtes de Genève, perlage and rhodium plating on the bridges and mainplate, as well as engraved and gilded inscriptions. The steel parts of the perpetual calendar mechanism are straight grinded and finely beveled, although they are not visible beneath the dial.

SPECIFICATION

CaseRound white gold 750/1000 case with a sapphire caseback, 3 lateral correctors & a crown at 3 o'clock
StrapGreen Alligator leather strap with a white gold 750/1000 Roger Dubuis pin buckle
DialBlack lacquer dial with a pplied white gold indices & Arabic numerals, day of the week & month windows at 12 o'clock, date indication at 5 o'clock & a moonphase at 7 o'clock, polished steel feuille hands
MovementRhodium plated perlaged, Geneva striped movement wih a swan neck fine adjustment & a quantime perpetual calendar complication
Cal.5739
Ref.H40
Movement No.242
Case No.242
D=40mm
YearCirca 2005

CONDITION REPORT

Case:Very good, only small signs of wear
Strap:Very good, only small signs of wear
Dial:Mint condition
Movement:Very good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approx 320°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approx +2 sec/day
Box: Yes
Papers: Yes

DELIVERY & RETURNS

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from Switzerland or Europe, your watch will be sent the same working week. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working week.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on the choice of courier and destination.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

WARRANTY

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards.

Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new.

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information.

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