A. Lange & Sohne

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in Rose Gold with Grey Dial
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DETAILS

The perpetual calendar is an important theme in the modern Lange collection, and we have seen this traditional complication in a variety of designs and combinations with other complications. Among them, the models in the Lange 1 collection stand out with their asymmetrical dial, which caused a sensation when the brand launched its first modern collection in 1994. For a long time – until 2012 – it was thought that the Lange 1 dial and the perpetual calendar were almost incompatible with the traditional cross-shaped arrangement of the displays. In 2012, with the introduction of the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon, this prejudice was disproved – it turned out that the Lange 1 dial is perfectly adapted to the perpetual calendar - in a design proposed by the Lange team. The only notable adaptation of the classic Lange 1 image to the new perpetual calendar was a mirrored dial, which is the principle of the automatic Daymatic models introduced in 2010. The advantage of the new perpetual calendar was obvious: Lange had a unique offering in its catalog that was clearly different from the perpetual calendars of other brands. The watch also featured an instantaneous calendar scheme, an automatic caliber and a tourbillon. The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon was popular, and it was not for nothing that the brand launched watches under five different references in different case metals - platinum and gold - and different dial colors.

REASONS TO BUY

The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Ref. 345.033 in rose gold with a grey dial is the first non-limited edition of this model, which was launched in 2021. Nevertheless, this watch is so carefully crafted that it already looks like a great Lange classic. Collectors will first notice that this model is a rare, perhaps even unique type of perpetual calendar, with an instantaneous calendar change at midnight, a large date, an easy-to-read peripheral month, a retrograde day of the week, an integrated moonphase and a day/night display. The asymmetrical dial layout typical of the legendary Lange 1 is complemented by the high-quality finish of the caliber – this watch is a very attractive alternative to the best perpetual calendars on the market.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar, the second generation of this design, was introduced in 2021, without a tourbillon but with a rose gold case with a grey dial (this watch) or – in a limited edition of 150 pieces – in white gold with a solid rose gold dial. The third and final version to date is in platinum with a black dial, which appeared in the catalog in 2023. The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has lost its tourbillon, but what has it gained in return? There is an answer to this question. The dial has been given a new look, without the inscription "Tourbillon" on the main time sub-dial, but with a moonphase display pointing directly upwards. There was an important reason for the latter change: it was necessary to emphasize that this display was given an integrated day/night indication through the introduction of an additional disk that changes its hue from daytime to night and back every day. This complication was introduced to the Lange collection in 2016, and therefore the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon could not benefit from it. The movement is endowed with the brand's characteristic quest for perfection. Everything here is traditional: bridges and mainplate in uncoated German silver which takes on a wonderful golden grey patina over time, bridges with Glashütte-style stripes, plate with perlage (it is very pleasant to observe the use of dots with different diameters), engraved and gilded inscriptions, gold chatons with blued screws, beautifully polished bevels with a rounded profile, a very beautiful rotor with a convex logo engraving and an artfully hammered background... Lovers of traditional finishing techniques will appreciate that the caliber L021.3 has two carefully hand-polished inner corners of the bridge bevels - this finishing element was not observed on models with a tourbillon. The watch is very comfortable on the wrist, as the ratio between the case diameter of 41.9 mm and the height of 12.1 mm is close to the optimum for an automatic perpetual calendar. The matt grey dial with its well thought-out arrangement of displays is perhaps one of the best options for a rose gold watch. The meticulous workmanship is typical of Lange: the recessed sub-dials with a fine grooved structure, the applied rose gold indices and the luminous "alpha" hands, also in rose gold - a real treat for those who expect nothing less than perfection from a dial.

Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar in Rose Gold with Grey Dial

Specifications

Ref345.033
D=41mm
GlassSapfire glass
DialGray
Case materialRose gold
Year2023
MovementAutomatic

Condition report

Box: Yes
Papers: Yes

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: