Vacheron Constantin

The Mercator model was conceived by Antwerp-based master enameller, watchmaker, and designer Jean Genbrugge, who developed the project with his wife, Lucie. A great admirer of Gerardus Mercator, Genbrugge decided to create a wristwatch to honour the cartographer’s legacy. In the early 1990s, he approached Claude-Daniel Proellochs, then CEO of Vacheron Constantin, who was reportedly immediately captivated by the project, marking the start of a long-term collaboration between the Genbrugges and the brand. A unique aspect of this project is the Genbrugges’ involvement in both producing the decorative dials and developing the concept for the double retrograde function module. Jean Genbrugge, together with the design, proposed his own version of this module, not only as a technical concept but also as a watch prototype. Vacheron Constantin watchmakers based the development of the final version on this concept, modifying it for serial production of the movement.

Fifty Mercator watches, designated Ref. 43050, were initially produced. Of these, 38 had 18-carat yellow gold cases and featured a dial with a map of Africa, Europe, and Asia, while the remaining 12 had platinum cases and displayed North and South America on the dial. The hour and minute hands were shaped like a geographer’s compass, continuing the cartographic theme.
Perhaps the most impressive are the Mercator models, which feature dials crafted using cloisonné enamel combined with enamel miniature painting. The enamel dials were made by the Genbrugge couple, and it is said to have taken them up to 12 days to create a single dial.

The two initial versions of the Mercator proved popular, prompting Vacheron Constantin to introduce additional designs. Special editions with exclusive dials were produced for various markets and regions, including Japan, Germany, France, Hong Kong, China, Portugal, Russia, Taiwan, and others. A Mercator limited edition with a non-cartographic dial featuring the 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac was also created.

This Vacheron Constantin Mercator “Europe” is an extremely rare timepiece from a limited edition of 10. The Mercator collection marks a fascinating chapter in Vacheron Constantin’s modern heritage, featuring decorative watches dedicated to the cartographic art of Gerardus Mercator, with his maps reproduced in miniature on the dials. The dial of this watch, crafted by Jean and Lucie Genbrugge using multicolour cloisonné enamel, depicts a map of Europe from Mercator’s Atlas – this motif is among the rarest and most beautiful. The elegant platinum case and ultra-thin automatic calibre 1120, which keeps the watch’s thickness to just 8.3 mm, further enhance its appeal.

The Mercator watch is perhaps the most famous discontinued model from the Vacheron Constantin collection with a bi-retrograde dial. Introduced in 1994 to commemorate 400 years since the death of Gerardus Mercator (1512–1594) and technically inspired by the historic Bras en l’Air pocket watches with its double retrograde function, the Mercator series used a similar system to indicate the hours with a jumping hand and the minutes with a continuous hand, both displayed on a magnificent dial with maps reproduced in enamel or engraving. Vacheron Constantin reported that a total of 638 pieces were produced between 1994 and 2004.