Cartier

Pasha Jour et Nuit in White Gold by Svend Andersen
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DETAILS

This is a very rare, charismatic and important Cartier white gold watch, produced in a limited edition of 30 pieces and launched in 1998. Although the dial bears the inscription “Cartier Paris”, the Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit Ref. 2417 is not part of the famous and coveted CPCP collection (Collection Privée Cartier Paris), as this was only officially launched later, but in the same year, 1998. Nonetheless, this watch can be considered a forerunner of the CPCP collection, as it embodies the same spirit, style, refinement, bold design and the same target audience, namely collectors and connoisseurs of fine watchmaking. This Jour et Nuit watch has perhaps the most unusual design for a Pasha de Cartier watch created in the 20th century. Like many other Cartier designs, the Pasha de Cartier has a long history. Legend has it that the Pasha was suggested by Louis Cartier to his client Thami El Glaoui, the Sultan (Pasha) of Marrakech, who wanted a gold watch with a shock-resistant, waterproof case, which was a major technical challenge at the time. Cartier’s response was a special version of the Tank, called Pasha: a watch with a crown protected by a screw-down case and a dial covered by a metal grill. In 1985, Cartier turned to Gerald Genta to design a luxury sports watch in precious metal, and he created the Pasha de Cartier watch based on this historic concept. The Pasha de Cartier design has since been reissued in countless versions. One of the most important and memorable is the Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit. The appeal of this watch is undoubtedly enhanced by the fact that it was developed with the help of a watchmaker who was important in the development of modern watchmaking and the independent watchmaking movement. The complication and dial design were developed by Svend Andersen, an independent watchmaker and co-founder of the AHCI Academy, who designed the complication module for Cartier.

REASONS TO BUY

This watch is part of the exclusive small series of Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit Limited Editions that Cartier launched at the end of the 20th century. The design of the Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit is an invention of the genius of Cartier, Gérald Genta and Svend Andersen. It is undoubtedly one of the most impressive and memorable designs in the Pasha de Cartier collection of all time. The ability to create watches with attractive and distinctive designs is one of Cartier’s strengths, and this watch is a clear confirmation of this achievement. It is a classic collector’s item, especially as production of this reference was discontinued and the number of pieces produced was very small, which undoubtedly adds to the appeal of this watch.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

The special feature of the Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit watch is a two-winged hour hand, with the longer wing representing the sun symbol and the shorter wing the moon. The hand has a jumping function, i.e. it only switches to a new hour when the previous hour ends. Just like the natural movement of the two celestial bodies across the sky, day and night are differentiated. The moon wing begins to indicate the time after 6 pm and before 6 am along the inner, lower arc of the chapter ring, and the sun wing moves along the outer, upper scale, indicating the hours of the day from 6 am to 6 pm. The additional dial at 6 o’clock is not a small seconds hand, but an additional minute dial, which is necessary for this watch because the hour hand only jumps to a new hour at the beginning of the hour and does not indicate fractions of an hour. In general, a simple display with only two hands requires a fairly complex mechanism, which is why watches with this concept are very rare. The crown is protected by a screw-down clasp on a chain and with a sapphire cabochon, a hallmark of the Pasha de Cartier design. The silver dial of the Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit watch bears witness to a high level of craftsmanship. It is decorated with an enlarged ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché pattern, with circular or straight brushed appliqués. The blued ‘double leaf’ hand has a central applied round element with an engraved star, the tips are decorated with a white sun and a golden moon symbols. The hands are driven by the Cartier caliber 115, a bespoke version of the high-quality, thin Frédéric Piguet 1150 self-winding movement and a display module designed by Svend Andersen. The Pasha de Cartier Jour et Nuit appears only very rarely on the market; apart from this Ref. 2417 in white gold with a silver dial and ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché (limited to 30 pieces), two other editions are known, the Ref. 2417 in white gold with a salmon-colored dial and ‘grain de riz’ guilloché (25 pieces) and Ref. 2389 in yellow gold with a silver dial, ‘Clous de Paris’ guilloché and yellow gold appliqués on the dial (20 pieces). All were produced in 1998 and 1999.

Pasha Jour et Nuit in White Gold by Svend Andersen

Specifications

CaseWhite gold 750/1000 case with a blue sapphire cabouchon screw down crown & a sapphire caseback
StrapOriginal burgandy Alligator leather strap, with a white gold folding clasp, signed "Cartier Paris"
DialSilvered engine turned dial, with applied brushed white gold sectors with black painted radial Arabic numerals for the 24-hours & a blued steel hand, small minutes hand at 6 o'clock
MovementRhodium-plated hand-wound movement, 21K white gold rotor & Cartier engraved bridges
Cal.115
Ref.2417
Case No.06/30
D=38 mm
Year1999

Condition report

Case:Very good, small signs of wear
Strap:Good, small signs of wear
Dial:Mint condition
Movement:Very good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approx 280°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approx +1 sec/day
Papers:Yes
Box:Yes

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: