Arnold & Son

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DETAILS
The history of wristwatches with a precise, so-called astronomical moonphase display in the Arnold & Son collection in its modern incarnation began with the True Moon model, which was introduced in 2007. The caliber A1788 for this moonphase watch, which accumulates a deviation of one day over 122 years, was developed in collaboration with the brand’s partner, the Swiss movement factory Jaquet-Baume (now La Joux-Perret) of La Chaux-de-Fonds, on the basis of the Eta self-winding movement, presumably 2893 (Sotheby’s points this out), whereby the mechanism of the second time zone was modified to use it as moonphase display. Arnold & Son’s close collaboration with Jaquet-Baume and La Joux-Perret continues to this day, even after the acquisition of both companies by Citizen Watch in 2012.
Subsequently, Arnold & Son abandoned the use of third-party movements in its moonphase watches and concentrated on the movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret. Launched in 2013, the HM Perpetual Moon, a model with a newly designed astronomical precision moonphase display which is very large and actually occupies the entire dial, is based on the A&S1001 caliber with manual winding and two barrels introduced in 2011, which offers a power reserve of 80 or even 90 hours. Its moonphase version is designated A&S1512 and, in addition to the large moonphase on the dial, also has another on the back of the watch. Arnold & Son claims that this was done to facilitate the precise adjustment of this display, whereas the display on the dial was not equipped with a means of precise adjustment, making for a spectacularly clean and impressive design. Like the True Moon, the HM Perpetual Moon with caliber A&S1512 has a 122-year calculated accuracy of moonphase indication.
REASONS TO BUY
With this Arnold & Son Perpetual Moon 41.5 in platinum with a salmon-colored dial, the focus is on the classic moonphase complication. The brand, which is associated with the name of the great English watchmaker, inventor and chronometer maker, was re-established in Switzerland in 1995 and has been offering exceptional moonphase watches since 2007. In this Perpetual Moon 41.5, the moonphase display stands out for its size, which turns into a breathtaking spectacle at dusk thanks to the luminescent material applied to the moon disk. Moreover, the display is precise and gives 122 years to accumulate a deviation of one day. Finally, this is perhaps the most attractive of the Arnold & Son moonphase watches, as it uses a charismatic and collectible combination of a platinum case and a salmon-colored dial.
ABOUT THIS WATCH
Arnold & Son still uses this movement today in designs with its impressive and popular XXL moon. In 2021, the HM Perpetual Moon line received a facelift and was therefore replaced by the Perpetual Moon models with a mother-of-pearl moon disk coated with luminous material. One year later, the Perpetual Moon 41.5 in 950 platinum with a salmon-colored dial (limited edition 28; this watch) and an unlimited model in 18k rose gold, the last facelift, were introduced. The case diameter has been slightly reduced from 42 mm to 41.5 mm without compromising the size of the dial. Therefore, a thinner bezel gives the dial more presence – which looks really impressive with the large glowing moon and constellations. The dial provides a spectacular backdrop for the moonphase display, as it has been given a unique finish with radially engraved rays of irregular width and depth. This creates a seemingly vibrant interplay of light and shadow – we think it’s a very artistic take on sunburst decoration.
The undisputed advantage of the Perpetual Moon 41.5 in platinum, however, is the charismatic combination of the platinum case, the rhodium-plated details of the dial and, above all, the salmon-colored dial.

Specifications
Ref | A&S1512 |
D= | 41.5mm |
Glass | Sapfire glass |
Condition report
Box: | Yes |
Papers: | Yes |