Breguet
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DETAILS
The history of the limited-edition Breguet Souscription Set begins in 1991, when Souscription Set No. 1, comprising a Ref. 3430 wristwatch with minute repeater and perpetual calendar, and a Perpetuelle Ref. 1890 pocket watch with pedometric automatic winding system, both in platinum and pink gold cases, was sold at the Antiquorum 'The Art of Breguet' themed sale in Geneva on 14 April 1991 for the impressive sum of 1,750,000 Swiss francs. This amount may seem shockingly high compared to the Swiss retail price of 490,000 francs announced for the yellow gold Souscription Set; however, it should be noted that the sale had a charitable purpose, with proceeds donated to the Breguet Foundation. Nevertheless, it was a remarkable launch for the Souscription limited edition of 300 sets, each comprising a wristwatch and pocket watch in platinum and yellow, rose, or white gold cases.
The name Souscription was chosen deliberately, in honour of the famous pocket watch with a simplified design and a single hour hand, developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 1790s, based on an idea by Swiss watchmaker Jacques-Frédéric Houriet. It was sold by subscription, with a quarter of the price paid in advance. Notably, this design was not used in the Souscription Set, which is appealing for other reasons, including the brand's significant historical heritage and pioneering developments of the 1970s and 1980s, achieved with the active participation of renowned watchmaker Daniel Roth.
The creation of the 300-set Souscription limited edition seems highly ambitious today, starting with the development of the Perpetuelle Ref. 1890 pocket watch, which the then independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani completed from scratch, and culminating in a highly complicated wristwatch featuring a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. In 1991, when this edition was launched, very few wristwatches combined these two major complications. Typically, such watches were produced as single pieces or in very small series, whereas Breguet dared to produce a series of 300 pieces – a large number for the time. It succeeded: judging by the serial numbers of sets that have since appeared on the secondary market, the series has completely sold out.
REASONS TO BUY
This Breguet Souscription Set No. 11, comprising the Ref. 3430 perpetual calendar minute repeater wristwatch and the Perpetuelle Ref. 1890 pocket watch in yellow gold, is a highly attractive proposition for the discerning connoisseur. It reflects both the historical legacy of the brand founded by the eminent watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet and the essential style statement of a modern interpretation of a traditional brand. This approach is realised in the Ref. 1890 pocket watch in the most aesthetically pleasing and authentic manner. Michel Parmigiani, a prominent contemporary watchmaker, collaborated on this Souscription Set, and the Ref. 3430 wristwatch features developments and designs by Nouvelle Lémania and renowned independent watchmaker Daniel Roth, who is credited with reviving the classic Abraham-Louis Breguet style in the brand's modern timepieces. Another important aspect is the clear undervaluation of many vintage Breguet editions on the market, making the acquisition of the most outstanding editions a worthwhile investment. In our opinion, the Breguet Souscription Set is one of the most promising in this regard for the knowledgeable collector.
ABOUT THIS WATCH
The Perpetuelle Ref. 1890 pocket watch, included in the Souscription Set, is based on the concept of a pocket watch featuring a pedometric automatic winding system with an oscillating weight, invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet around 1780. He used this innovation to create his renowned Perpetuelle pocket watch, a unique offering at the time, as there were very few alternatives. The Breguet company developed and produced the Perpetuelle Ref. 1890 for the Souscription Set in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani, who had not yet launched his own brand but demonstrated his skills and excellent aesthetic taste in these watches. The dial design is based on the Perpetuelle No. 164 dial, which was finished and sold by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, with one major difference: the modern Ref. 1890 is not equipped with a repeater, as Abraham-Louis Breguet typically did at the time.
The movement of Ref. 1890 is not an exact replica of a Perpetuelle watch from the late 18th or early 19th centuries, but a modern interpretation with the exquisite finishing characteristic of the finest contemporary watches – an evident contribution by Michel Parmigiani. Ref. 1890 still features remarkable inventions by Abraham-Louis Breguet, including the double 'pare-chute' shock-absorbing system for the balance; the double sapphire roller of the platinum weight, which ensures the heavy weight remains within the plane of the movement, preventing accidental impacts on other components; symmetrical twin damping springs that limit the weight's oscillation range; and an asymmetrical dial arrangement with small seconds, date, power reserve, moonphase, and superb guilloché work in various patterns. It should be noted that the early Perpetuelle No. 5 of 1794, often cited as a prototype for this watch, does not feature a date indicator at 6 o’clock.
The dial of Ref. 3430 features classic guilloché, rich in information yet exceptionally balanced, with all elements clearly legible. Ref. 3430 provides a superb interpretation of the modern adaptation of the Abraham-Louis Breguet style, developed by the brand in the 1970s and 1980s with the active participation of renowned contemporary watchmaker Daniel Roth. Given the market conditions at the time, the immense complexity of the movement – calibre 567 – is particularly impressive, combining a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar.
Both components are essential. The minute repeater is based on the Nouvelle Lémania 399 caliber, developed as a scaled-down wristwatch version of the classic Swiss pocket watch repeater from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Its aesthetically distinctive features include the triple 'finger' bars, the bridges of the central wheel and repeater barrel forming a guitar motif, the beautifully curved barrel bridge with a long, flat click, and traditional finishing with perlage, Côtes de Genève, and polished bevels with sharp corners. The perpetual calendar is an in-house development by Daniel Roth, originally used in the Breguet Ref. 3050, the brand's first automatic wristwatch with a perpetual calendar, which appeared in the late 1970s to early 1980s. It undoubtedly adds to the value and appeal of this Souscription Set.
Specifications
| Cal. | Cal. 567 |
| Ref. | Wrist Watch 3430 / Pocket Watch 1890 |
| Movement No. | 3188 |
| Case No. | 011 |
| D= | 37mm / 61,5mm |
| Year | 1990 |
Condition report
| Case: | Good, signs of wear (Pocket Watch: small scratches on the crystal) |
| Strap: | Good, signs of wear |
| Dial: | Good, small signs of coloration |
| Movement: | Very good, all functions working properly |
| Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52): | Approx +280° / +330° |
| Accuracy (Dial on top): | Approx +30 sec/day / +6 sec/day |
| Box: | Yes |
| Papers: | No |
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS:
