Ressence

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DETAILS
The Belgian brand Ressence has made a name for itself by designing watches that are unlike anything you’ve seen before. Ressence watches have no crown, so the overall design is dynamic and puristic. The entire dial rotates simultaneously with the minute hand, while the other displays are mounted on rotating disks connected by a planetary gear. As there is no crown, all winding and hand settings are made by turning the C-ring on the caseback. The minimalist and futuristic design, in keeping with modern esthetics – so much so that it is more reminiscent of a smartwatch than a mechanical watch– is the project of Belgian designer Benoît Mintiens, who founded the brand in 2010. His idea was to create a watch with an unusual, unconventional design but with a user-friendly, ergonomic and intuitive time display system, although some people have commented that the watch is too difficult to read. To make this idea a reality, he developed a mechanical display module installed on a Swiss-made base caliber, usually the Eta 2824. However, the unusual concept was no guarantee that someone else would come up with a similar idea – and that is exactly what happened. The history of the brand began with a very unpleasant coincidence for a start-up: in the same year, a similar concept for a watch with a planetary time display system was presented by movement designer and manufacturer Jean-François Mojon, who had designed the Opus 10watch for Harry Winston. Nevertheless, Mintiens withstood the onslaught and, through years of effort, brought the production of Ressence watches to several hundred pieces per year (the New York Times reports 650 pieces in 2023), while the Opus series was discontinued in 2014 with the Opus 14 and never renewed.
REASONS TO BUY
This Ressence Type 1 Squared X Time by Colour seems to be an signature model to the history of the independent Belgian brand, released in honor of its tenth anniversary. Ressence has a unique positioning in the world of modern watchmaking, standing out from the general luxury watch industry and offering its own vision of modern design, ergonomics and functionality. The watch clearly feels the influence of the style of modern smartwatches, although these two were developed in parallel. Nevertheless, the Type 1 Squared X Time by Colour is a purely mechanical watch that does not require a battery or charging and will not lose its relevance over the years. This watch belongs to a rare anniversary edition of 40 pieces, which guarantees rarity and attractiveness for a collector.
ABOUT THIS WATCH
Almost all models in the Ressence collection have a round case. The only exception is the cushion-shaped Type 1 Squared series, which the brand introduced in 2017. This includes Type 1 Squared X Time by Colour watch, the fourth and final model in the X Anniversary collection in honor of the brand’s tenth anniversary. This collection was released in 2020, although the brand has announced the launch of the Type 1 Squared X Time by Colour for January 2021. This watch from the limited edition of 40 pieces was given a khaki-colored dial and a cushion-shaped case made of brushed titanium. This is the first Type 1 Squared in titanium, which is normally made of steel. The watch also features the Time by Colour function, which displays the different times of day with a different mix of colored spheres. The special sub-dial contains 48 colored 0.9 mm ceramic spheres in yellow, light grey, light blue and black, which move one by one every half hour and display 3 colors at a time. The morning hours, starting at 6 a.m., are represented by yellow spheres, the daytime hours by grey ones, the evening hours, starting at 6 p.m., by blue ones and the nighttime hours by black ones. In addition, the two markings on the dial of the Type 1 Squared X Time by Colour are shaped to resemble an “8”, although it is quite possible that the designer had the symbol of an hourglass in mind. The display module is driven by the minute axis of the automatic base caliber Eta 2892 and not by the thicker Eta 2824 found in other Ressence models.

Specifications
Ref | Type 1 |
D= | 41mm |
Glass | Sapfire glass |
Claps | Buckle |
Dial | Green |
Case material | Titanium |
Movement | Automatic |
Condition report
Box: | Yes |
Papers: | Yes |