Krayon
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DETAILS
When Krayon debuted the Everywhere in 2017 – a stunningly complex wristwatch that functioned as a mechanical calculator for sunrise and sunset times – the name Rémi Maillat, the movement’s engineer, was virtually unknown to the public. This was surprising, as the Everywhere watch was remarkable for its dedication to achieving the ultimate in calculating the sun’s motion across the sky anywhere on the planet, and for its brilliant, unprecedented execution of this concept. However, this is perhaps less surprising given Rémi Maillat’s background, which included an internship at Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier and, from 2008, a career at Cartier as a movement designer. He then pursued a plan to work as an independent engineering consultant for various watch companies, sometimes offering his own technical concepts. In 2013, he realised he did not want to share the next idea that had struck him, which led him to found the Krayon brand.
Following the successful launch of the Everywhere watch in 2017, the question arose as to what should be pursued next. After speaking with collectors, Rémi Maillat realised that the Everywhere’s “mechanical brain” was too complex – not only to develop and manufacture, but, above all, for the wearer to use. He therefore decided to reserve this model for avid connoisseurs of extreme mechanical complexity, while offering other collectors a simpler alternative: one that delegates the complex task of setting the watch to the customer’s chosen geographic location to a specialist – a watchmaker. Thus, the simpler and more user-friendly Anywhere model was developed and launched in 2020.
Despite all the simplifications, the Anywhere watch shares a feature with its more complex predecessor, the Everywhere: both use a mechanical positioning system developed by Krayon, based on gears and levers. Traditional sunrise and sunset adjustments rely on a cam mechanism pre-calculated for fixed geographic coordinates. Adjusting a traditional system for a new location requires creating a custom-made programme cam, whereas the Anywhere mechanism needs only a special adjustment screw, which should, of course, be entrusted to a Krayon watchmaker. This adjustment can be made as often as necessary.
REASONS TO BUY
In our view, the appeal of the Anywhere watch arises from two factors: Rémi Maillat, founder and creative force behind the Krayon brand, upholds traditional watchmaking values while embracing the avant-garde nature of his technical innovations. Only by balancing these extremes can a watch be created with a classic design and elegant, slender proportions that are comfortable for daily wear, yet offer impressively spectacular functionality. The coexistence of these extremes is also evident in the calibre, which is a highly intriguing example of modern mechanical watchmaking.
The Anywhere model was available in three versions: white gold with a blue dial; rose gold with a light cream dial and a dark blue and light blue sunrise and sunset ring; or rose gold with a light cream dial and a cream and dark blue sunrise and sunset ring (this watch), which is the most elegant version of this model in our opinion.
ABOUT THIS WATCH
The Anywhere’s classic 39mm case, just 9mm thick despite its complex movement, appears elegant. Given the movement’s complexity, one might expect an intricate, ornate dial, but it is deliberately understated, featuring two sculpted, teardrop-shaped, tapering hour and minute hands, both entirely mirror-polished, a small date and month counter, and a peripheral sunrise/sunset ring. Even the sun figurine, with its mirror-polished triangular rays, maintains a minimalist appearance. The central part of the dial is adorned with a relief motif and applied 3D indexes with a special cut, creating facets that form the brand logo.
The hand-wound calibre C030, developed specifically for the Anywhere watch, offers a comfortable 72-hour power reserve. It combines a traditional hand-wound movement with classic finishing techniques and features an innovative, complex module that drives the rotating half-rings of the day/night indicator. The indicator mechanism is positioned at the bottom of the movement and displays a rigorous, symmetrical design reminiscent of the finest examples of watchmaking. The movement’s avant-garde character is further emphasised by an unusual array of finishing techniques, some created especially for this watch. For example, the classic Côtes de Genève is executed along a curved path, mirroring a graph of sunrise times in Neuchâtel throughout the year, while the polished chamfer with internal and external corners on the lower edge of the main gear bridge and barrel reproduces a section of the Lake Neuchâtel shoreline. The movement also includes many traditional details, such as the black-polished long straight winding click, the Geneva-style stud cap on the balance cock, and the black-polished cap for the escape wheel jewel, making inspection of the Anywhere movement a true pleasure.
The relative positions of the two rotating half-rings of the peripheral day/night indicator are determined by the geographic coordinate system and the calendar. Therefore, the date and month display is integrated into the Anywhere watch not only to provide a calendar function but also to enable correct setting of the sunrise and sunset indicator. The calendar subdial, with date and month hands, is located at 6 o’clock. It is a simple double calendar, with the month length set to 31 days. The calendar requires only five adjustments per year, which are made using the crown, either forwards or backwards.
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