Breguet

The perpetual calendar and the chronograph have been a traditional combination in pocket watches since the second half of the 18th century, when modern versions of these complications were developed. However, in the collection of the modern Breguet brand, which has focused on reviving traditional complications since the 1980s, we find very few wristwatches with such a double complication. Furthermore, an analysis of all three references available at the time shows that they are essentially the same design. There is very little information about the earliest reference 3610, which was supposedly produced from 1992 onwards, right down to the question of whether it existed at all. We assume it did exist, but production was very low as the Breguet brand only gained momentum in the early 1990s. Moreover, Breguet watches with this double complication were overshadowed by similar models from Patek Philippe, which had already been active in this genre for more than half a century at the time - Ref. 1518, the first chrono-perpetual wristwatch, was launched in 1941.

Why do we think it logical to assume that there is a Ref. 3610? Because this reference, which differs from the 3617 that followed it in that it has a closed solid caseback instead of the exhibition caseback of the 3617, is absolutely in line with the logic of the development of the Breguet collection in the 1980s and early 1990s. The two Breguet chronographs 3230 and 3237, for example, are identical in terms of case size, design and dial layout. Breguet’s historical records show that the reference number 3230 was used as a general reference for both types of caseback, the solid and the exhibition caseback. Later, the reference number 3237 was introduced to accurately identify only the watches with an exhibition caseback. Following this logic, the original Breguet Chrono-Perpetual reference 3610, which could be fitted with both a solid and exhibition caseback, would have been replaced by reference 3617, which only had an exhibition caseback (circa 1994).

The changeover to the new reference 5617 most probably took place in 1998. The overall design remained unchanged, the watch received a new, slightly thicker winding crown with an embossed “B” logo instead of the previous “flat” crown, a moon face for the moon moonphase display and an option for a caseback secured with seven screws was also introduced. As our research shows, the last option is not mandatory, as some examples of the 5617 have a snap-on caseback, including the watch offered here. It should therefore be noted that the overall picture is approximate, as it is quite possible that these modifications were introduced around the same time as the change to the new reference. To get a definitive picture, more information is certainly required than is currently available. The presence of a later winding crown with a “B” logo on some examples of Ref. 3617 could also be explained by a replacement of the crown during servicing. Production of the Ref. 5617, Breguet’s last Chrono-Perpetual, ended in 2001 or 2002, but the examples produced could of course have been sold much later.

This Breguet Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5617 in platinum is an attractive purchase for a collector looking for a beautiful and rare wristwatch with a double complication from a world-famous traditional brand. This watch offers a recognizable look with a solid gold and silver-plated guilloché dial in a classic design with a cross-shaped arrangement of counters reminiscent of the dials of classic pocket watches with the same complications. The outstanding caliber, based on the legendary Nouvelle Lémania 2310 and equipped with a Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module, is the best you can be found in the genre of classic chrono-perpetuals. In addition, the discerning collector will welcome this rare platinum version from the latest “white” 5617 series, which undoubtedly enhances the appeal of this watch.