Patek Philippe

Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"
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DETAILS

When it comes to classic Patek Philippe watches with complications that best express the style and spirit of the Geneva-based brand, chronographs and perpetual calendars are the first things that come to mind. These include the Ref. 3450 with perpetual calendar and its predecessor, the Ref. 3448, which were Patek Philippe’s first automatic perpetual calendars. The relatively small and carefully documented production of the two references, made between 1962 and 1985, their elegant design that is still relevant today, their sophisticated and beautiful caliber with a traditional and practical complication, and their high level of craftsmanship, confirmed by the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, have long attracted the attention of collectors, which is why both the 3448 and the 3450 always attract great interest at auctions. This chapter in the history of the Geneva-based brand began in 1962, when Patek Philippe launched the reference 3448, the first ever self-winding perpetual calendar. The watch featured a bold 1960s design with clean, geometric lines, including a discreet cylindrical case and a polished, wide and sloping bezel – prompting Italian collectors to name both the case and the watch Padellone (“frying pan”). The sleek style is further enhanced by a semi-concealed crown with the typical embossed Calatrava cross. The Ref. 3448 is powered by the caliber 27-460Q (Q: Quantième), a complicated version of the Patek Philippe basic self-winding caliber 27-460, which is considered by collectors and connoisseurs to be one of the best automatic movements of all time. The dial of the Ref. 3448 had no leap year display, which was in keeping with the taste of the time when it came to perpetual calendars. But tastes change, and in 1981 Patek Philippe modernized the design and launched the Ref. 3450 with a new dial that included a leap-year display in a small round window near the 4 o’clock position. Otherwise, the design and execution of the perpetual calendar remained unchanged: “Better is often the enemy of good”, as the saying goes. Perhaps the only notable exception besides the leap year display is the snap-on caseback, which has become slightly smaller and has a pull tab for easy opening, as well as a modified caliber with a leap year display, the 27-460 QB (Q: Quantième, B: Bissextile). Compared to the previous Ref. 3448, which had a lifespan of about twenty years, Ref. 3450 was relatively short-lived. Despite its short production time of five years, the Ref. 3450 is divided into several versions (generations): The 1st series is characterized by a leap year display with Arabic numerals 1, 2, 3, with the leap year displayed in red; the most rare 2nd series has Arabic numerals from 1 to 4 and is distinguished by Christie’s, who had at least one such example sold; finally, the 3rd series has Roman numerals from I to IV (the present watch). At the end of production in 1985, a few examples were issued as Ref. 3450-100 with a sapphire crystal caseback. Production of the Ref. 3450 was discontinued in 1985 due to the introduction of the new automatic perpetual calendar Ref. 3940, which was powered by a minirotor caliber 240Q and had a dial with orthogonally arranged counters for the perpetual calendar, similar to classic pocket watches.

REASONS TO BUY

This Perpetual Calendar 3450J “Lumen” with an 18k yellow gold case features a charismatic and exceptionally legible dial with impressive symmetry, typical of Patek Philippe watchmaking — it is definitely one of the most laconic and harmonious dials among the perpetual calendars. This watch belongs to the third series of the Ref. 3450 with Roman numerals for the leap year indication, and its “narrow sigma” dial features luminous hour markers instead of the usual “stick” hour markers, complemented by luminous hands in the classic “Dauphine” shape – an important feature of this example. The watch is powered by the renowned automatic caliber 27-460 QB, often regarded as one of the finest self-winding movements of all time, which undoubtedly adds to the appeal of the watch.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

From a collector’s point of view, the Ref. 3450 is characterized by a small number of examples with variations, whereby almost the entire edition of 244 pieces (some sources speak of 237) being executed in one gold color, namely 18k yellow gold, and a predominant type of white sigma dial with matt silvering, “Dauphine” hands and applied hour-markers. One of the well-known variants is the leap year display type, which divides the edition into three series (it is generally assumed that there are two series – with a red dot and Arabic numerals or with Roman numerals). However, extremely rare examples with special features occasionally appear on the market, which is always an event. These include models in white gold (Phillips reports two examples), with gold bracelets in various designs, with a white enamel dial and black Roman numerals, as well as double-signed pieces with an additional jeweler’s logo. Unnoticed by the market, there are two types of “sigma” signatures, the narrow one, which is the most common, and the broad one; also unnoticed are “Swiss” and “Swiss Made”dials without “sigma” markings.

This Ref. 3450 with an 18k yellow gold case has an extremely rare option: a dial with luminous “Dauphine” hands and applied hour-markers. While we have no precise information about the reason for the appearance of this option, it is likely that it is similar to the Ref. 3450 with a white enamel dial and black Roman numerals (sold at Sotheby’s in 2012), which was probably offered as an optional extra at the owner’s request.

Perpetual Calendar "Lumen"

Specifications

Ref3450
D=38mm
GlassSapphire crystal
Clasp18k yellow gold pin buckle
DialSilver matte dial with applied gold baton & pyramidal hour markers, apertures for day, month, leap-year, moonphase, subdial for date
Case material18k yellow gold
YearCirca 1980s
MovementSelf-winding perpetual calendar with moon-phase and leap-year indicator
Caliber27-460 QB
Color of BraceletBlack leather

Condition report

Box: No
Papers: No

ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: