Chanel

The first two versions of the Monsieur de Chanel watch were presented by the brand in 2016, this example the third limited edition of 100 pieces in platinum, presented in 2017, the year of the 30th anniversary of the brand’s watch division. Platinum is an extremely rare choice for the Chanel watch collection. For the collector, another feature is no less enticing, namely the black grand feu enamel dial. The black grand feu enamel technique is difficult to execute, which is why you won’t find many modern watches with black enamel dials on the market. For watches from the Chanel collection, the use of black enamel had a special meaning, as black is the symbolic color of the fashion house.

Returning to the importance of design in fashion brand watches, we would like to note that at first look at the back of the watch, it is clear that the Chanel 1 caliber is certainly a designer product, in addition to its significant technical features. Its structure is dominated by the central main gear bridge, which in this case is also a barrel bridge. It has an unusual, spectacular ring shape, so that the bearing jewels of the arbors of the two barrels and the two axles of the main gear train are mounted along the circumference of the bridge. Almost all the wheels of a caliber are visible, which is normally the case with skeletonized calibers, whereas this movement has no skeletonization. The plate and bridges are in black, which together with the rhodium-plated wheels creates Chanel’s preferred black and white color scheme. Visible wheels have an important feature – they give the watch owner the feeling of being involved in the magic of watchmaking, which is very important for haute horlogerie watches. It is also important to mention that Romain Gauthier, a respected independent watchmaker, has made a remarkable contribution to the production of the Chanel 1 caliber. He manufactures some parts of the movement, most notably the wheels. His involvement can be seen in the high-quality finishing of the wheels with five-pointed spokes, which are a traditional choice in watchmaking, but also in the double and also five-pointed spokes of the free-sprung balance with the timing screws – these form a star that further expresses the Chanel brand image in this watch. In addition to this collaboration with Chanel, the fact that Romain Gauthier has sold part of his company to the brand makes him, in a way, a member of the team that Chanel was obviously looking for.

The Monsieur de Chanel watch has a rare functionality that is an important part of its appeal. The dial has a digital jumping hour in combination with a small seconds hand and a retrograde minute, which has a rare function – it can be set forwards or backwards without damaging the movement. This is a very useful feature of the Chanel 1 caliber that allows the watch owner to set the time without fear of damaging the precious watch.