H. Moser & Cie
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DETAILS
Nowadays it is rare for a watch brand to invent a new complication, especially in the field of calendars. H. Moser & Cie is famous for its ‘flash’ perpetual calendar Perpetual 1, which was developed with the active participation of independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler in 2005 when the brand was relaunched. This Endeavour Chinese Calendar Limited Editionwatch was launched in 2023 in collaboration with complication manufacturer Agenhor, who developed and produced the calendar module with the function of the Chinese lunisolar calendar, which also features a practical civil Gregorian date display. This Chinese calendar has a very unusual design with two retrograde displays on the left and right side – a clear reference to the history of the Agenhor atelier, which was preceded by the development of a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar for Harry Winston in 1989 by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, the later founder of Agenhor. A characteristic feature of Wiederrecht’s bi-retrograde calendar was the two retrograde displays on the left and right-hand sides, which were not designed in form of arched openings, as in the Endeavour Chinese Calendar, but as displays with hands.
REASONS TO BUY
The Endeavour Chinese Calendar in rose gold, launched by H. Moser & Cie in 2023 in a limited edition of 100 pieces, is a very rare interpretation of the traditional Chinese lunisolar calendar in a modern wristwatch. The functioning of the displays on the magnificent Midnight Blue fumé dial is ensured by a complex calendar mechanism developed and produced by the Geneva-based complication atelier Agenhor. The layout of the Endeavour Chinese Calendar dial is a nod to the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar, which was very popular in the 1990s and was invented for Harry Winston in 1989 by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, who later founded Agenhor. In our opinion, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar has the rare advantage of a beautiful and long-standing story behind the watch – a welcome bonus for a discerning collector.
ABOUT THIS WATCH
The Endeavour Chinese Calendar was developed as a sophisticated mechanical interpretation of the traditional Chinese calendar, which is solar-lunar, i.e. it follows the cycles determined by the movements of the two heavenly bodies. On the left-hand side of the dial is the solar part of the calendar with the indication of the 12-year annual cycle and a marker in the form of a circle representing the sun. On the right-hand side is the lunar part of the calendar with a date display and a marker in the form of a disc representing the moon. This hand is also the moonphase – therefore the width of the cut-out opening decreases from the center to the edges and shows the corresponding part of the moon face. At the top of the dial is a window showing the hieroglyph representing the Chinese zodiac sign associated with each Chinese year. The calendar mechanism also calculates the 13th “embolismic” months, which are added every 2 or 3 years so that the lunar years coincide with the seasons.
The Endeavour Chinese Calendar watch is crafted in the minimalist style that is typical of the modern H. Moser & Cie collection. This includes the barely perceptible logo on the dial, which is printed in transparent lacquer. The dial in the dark blue shade Midnight Blue, which perfectly matches the 18k rose gold case, has a characteristic smoky (fumé) finish consisting of a color gradient – from a light, saturated center to a darker, almost black periphery, and a radial brushing that creates a distinct solarization effect.
The 3-day caliber HMC 210 in this watch is a self-winding movement from H. Moser & Cie. It is based on the HMC 200 and has been enhanced with a calendar module developed and produced by the Geneva complication workshop Agenhor. The HMC 210 is beautifully finished, with beveled edges and bridges with extra-wide double Geneva stripes – the so-called “Moser stripes” or “Côtes de Moser”, that are a specialty of H. Moser & Cie. Other special features include the engraved and gilt brand logo and the traditional H. Moser & Cie coat of arms, the V-shaped balance bridge in the Lepine style and an open-worked rotor in solid gold engraved in relief with the H. Moser & Cie logo.
Specifications
| Ref | 1210-0400 |
| D= | 40mm |
| Glass | Sapfire glass |
| Claps | Buckle |
| Functions | Hours, Minutes, Date, Moon Phase, Retrograde Months, Small Seconds |
| Dial | Blue |
| Case material | Red Gold |
| Year | 2023 |
| Movement | Automatic |
Condition report
| Box: | Yes |
| Papers: | Yes |
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS:
