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Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants
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The DB1 watch has a unique status that is significant to the history of the brand and its heritage, as it is the first reference that started the De Bethune chronicle. Furthermore, this watch is historically important as it bears the number 001, meaning that it is one of the first timepieces to leave the De Bethune workshops.
In the early years, the brand had only just begun to develop its own calibers, and the watches launched in 2002 and 2003 were equipped with calibers sourced from suppliers. This also applies to the De Bethune caliber [DB]2002 in this watch. It is based on a rare hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement developed by the THA (Techniques Horlogères Appliqueés) atelier for complicated movements. THA was founded in 1996 by independent watchmaker François-Paul Journe, who was joined by Vianney Halter and Denis Flageollet, also one of the co-founders of De Bethune. The [DB]2002 caliber is actually a version of the 045 MC caliber originally developed by THA for the reissue of the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir. It is based on the layout of the early wrist chronographs from the first quarter of the 20th century, whose functions were switched by pressing the crown. This caliber also uses a rare combination of a column wheel control and a clutch with rocking pinion. After being produced by THA, the rights to this caliber were transferred to La Joux-Perret, a former Jaquet-Baume factory, and produced as the LJP5000-4 caliber. In 2007, the Bucherer watch division bought THA.
The DB1 is the first reference ever produced by De Bethune. This DB1R watch is therefore a highly desirable acquisition for collectors and connoisseurs of De Bethune watchmaking. It offers the opportunity to acquire an extremely rare, collectible, charismatic and early mechanical timepiece from this famous independent watch brand, undoubtedly one of the market leaders in modern haute horlogerie. The present example dates from the first year of De Bethune’s activity and displays all the stylistic features characteristic of the brand’s early period, including a large, round and slender case with the characteristic ogival lugs and a matt silvered solid gold dial with blued steel “Pomme de Breguet” hands. This example with the proud number 001 on the caseback is the first in the DB1R series and one of the earliest examples of the De Bethune collection to ever leave the manufacture, which makes this rare and sought-after timepiece even more attractive.
Denis Flageollet was involved in the development and production of the 045 MC caliber. It is therefore only logical that he wanted to use a caliber in the collection of the newly founded brand that he was involved in developing and that he knew very well. The movement in the DB1 watch is hidden behind a solid caseback, so there is no way to quickly determine which version of the movement, THA or La Joux-Perret, is used in this watch. However, apart from a few unprincipled technical aspects, it is generally the same movement. The chronograph functions of this DB1 watch are activated by pressing the winding crown.
The DB1, De Bethune’s first model, is a truly exclusive offering that has grown in stature over time. Only 21 of the current reference DB1R have been produced since 2002 and only a few have appeared on the secondary market. This watch stands out even against this backdrop, as it bears the number 001 and is the first of the DB1R series. In addition to this reference, the brand also released models in white gold (DB1W; 28 pieces) and yellow gold (DB1Y), only one of which was produced, according to Phillips. Phillips also mentions a diamond-set white gold version, of which only 4 were produced.
This timepiece illustrates De Bethune’s strategy of always striving for unconventional, special and spectacular designs, without pursuing a one-size-fits-all approach. This means that there are stylistic elements in each of the brand’s watches that also appear in other references and clearly show that it’s a De Bethune watch. These stylistic elements include the characteristic bullet-shaped lugs – called ogival by the brand – a chapter ring with pad-printed dark blue Roman numerals, ‘Pomme de Breguet’ hands in blued steel and a matt silver-plated solid gold dial with “grain de riz” and “filet sauté” guilloché. The slightly recessed counters are grooved.
De Bethune watches are currently achieving very good results at auction, especially pieces from the early days of the company. It should also be mentioned that the brand has never produced watches in large quantities since its foundation. De Bethune’s production has always had an extremely limited, exclusive character. The early De Bethune watches, especially the models launched in the year the company was founded, are of great interest to collectors, as the brand’s collection developed very dynamically in the early days. Many references appeared, their production time was generally very short and the edition was very small.
| Case | Polished rose gold case 750/1000 with a solid rose gold caseback, crown at 3 o'clock with integrated chronograph pushers |
| Strap | Black Alligator leather strap, with a original rose gold pin buckle |
| Dial | Engine turned silvered dial, with black Roman numerals, railway minute track, chronograph minutes counter at 3 o'clock & small seconds 9 o'clock, blued Breguet hands, dial signed: "De Bethune" |
| Movement | Rhodium-plated hand-wound column-wheel chronograph with blued screws & Geneva stripes |
| Cal. | DB2002 |
| Ref. | DB1R |
| Case No. | 001 |
| D= | 42 mm |
| Year | Circa 2002 |
| Papers: | Yes |
We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.
If ordering from Switzerland or Europe, your watch will be sent the same working week. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working week.
If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on the choice of courier and destination.
You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.
All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards.
Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new.
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