Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants


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Daniel Roth

Masters Calendar sold


A fine, very rare and attractive white gold perpetual calendar wristwatch from the haute horlogerie Swiss watch brand Daniel Roth, founded in 1989 and active until 2010. Produced in early 2000s. Double ellipse-shaped case in 18k white gold, measuring 35 x 38mm, 9.8mm thick, sapphire caseback. Ruthenium-plated dial with vertical linear and ‘filet sauté’ guilloché motifs, silvered brushed outline of date sub-dial, silvered brushed chapter ring, black printed numerals and inscriptions. Caliber DR114, self-winding, 18k yellow gold rotor with ‘lotus’ guilloché motif. Functions – indication of time in hours and minutes, perpetual calendar with date and leap year indicators at 6 o’clock, day of the week and month indicators in apertures in the centre, moon phase at 12 o’clock. Black leather strap, 18k white gold Daniel Roth pin buckle. 


Daniel Roth, considered to be one of the most important modern watchmakers, has been hailed a visionary of high-end complicated mechanical watchmaking. In 1989, he founded his own brand after fifteen years as the leading watchmaker at Breguet, where he recreated the classic Breguet style and developed some iconic watches, including tourbillon, chronograph, and perpetual calendar pieces, as well as the charismatic Ref. 3130, inspired by Breguet’s pocket watch No. 5 of 1794. For his own brand, Daniel Roth developed a unique style, a kind of late-20th century Breguet with a double ellipse-shaped Ellipsocurvex case design, instantly recognisable amongst watch connoisseurs, with ruthenium-plated guilloché dials and blued steel arrow hands. Among Daniel Roth’s masterpieces, the tourbillons and the perpetual calendars are probably the most memorable and desirable. Finished to the highest standard, his watches reveal appealing and finely elaborated dials, charismatic double ellipse-shaped cases and haute horlogerie movement finishings. 

Daniel Roth is one of the few brands that has undertaken the development of its own perpetual calendar. Development started in the late 1980s in collaboration with Philippe Dufour, a well-known independent watchmaker and expert in traditional fine finishing techniques. The perpetual calendar, according to the original plan, was to have an instant switching function. However, in 1991, when the first prototypes were ready and tested, it turned out that the energy of the intermediate spring of the switching mechanism was not enough for a confident jumping rotation of the day of the week and month indicator discs. The inertia of the disc of the original design turned out to be too large. The solution to this technical problem took two development paths. The first scenario saw the instantaneous perpetual calendar project restarted on the basis of the existing development, but with pointer indicators instead of discs. The corresponding model was launched in 1998. According to the second path, watchmakers adapted the existing development to the semi-instantaneous switching function, keeping the disc indicators, with the corresponding model released in 1993. 


CaseEllipsocurvex polished white gold case 750/1000, with a sapphire caseback, 4 lateral date correctors
BraceletOriginal black Alligator leather strap, with a original white gold pin buckle
DialEngine-turned Anthracite dial, applied silverd hour disk with Roman numerals, moon phase indication at 12 o'clock, month indication at 4 o'clock, leap year & date indication at 6 o'clock, weekday indication at 8 o'clock, blued hands
MovementRhodium-plated automatic movement, with geneva stripes & engine-turned gold rotor, perpetual calendar function
Cal.DR 114
Case No.23
D=35 x 38mm


Case:Very good, small signs of wear
Strap:Very good, small signs of wear
Dial:Mint condition
Movement:Very good, all functions working properly
Amplitude (Dial on top/Lift angle 52):Approx 310°
Accuracy (Dial on top):Approx + 4 sec/day


We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from Switzerland or Europe, your watch will be sent the same working week. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working week.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on the choice of courier and destination.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.


All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards.

Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new.

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information.



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