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Parmigiani Fleurier

Toric Tourbillon in Platinum CHF 57 500

DETAILS

In the 1990s and 2000s, Haute Horlogerie experienced a renaissance, to which creative small brands and independent watchmakers made an important contribution. Some releases from these years are already considered outstanding and arouse great interest in the collectors community. It is no wonder that collectors’ interest in watches from independent watchmakers and small creative brands is currently on the rise. For many of these brands, including Parmigiani Fleurier, the initial phase of their activity is particularly interesting. During this period, the founders of a brand usually implement their own preconceived and often unique concepts. Later on, factors such as customer wishes become increasingly important, which, although inevitable, often leads to a significant correction of the original concept or even to its complete abandonment – which is exactly what happened with the Parmigiani Fleurier collection. In the early days of this brand under the direction of its founder Michel Parmigiani, a famous watch and clock restorer, the brand mainly offered collector-oriented watches. They are characterized by a special aura, which we prefer to call ‘museum spirit’ and which was cultivated in the brand’s collection thanks to Michel Parmigiani’s fine esthetic sense. His background as a restorer brought a collector’s approach to the design of the brand’s watches, which played an important role in the design of the early collection.

REASONS TO BUY

In our opinion, the Toric Tourbillon is the rare watch that marked the history of collector’s watches in the early 2000s. The ‘museum spirit’ best expressed in the early Parmigiani Fleurier watches is clearly much in this watch. The memorable design with the openworked dial, which reveals the absolutely symmetrical design of a magnificently decorated movement, logically leads us to the continuously rotating tourbillon, the king of complications. The design was created by the brand’s founder, Michel Parmigiani, according to the classic recipe where it is impossible to leave out anything superfluous – as the famous composer Brahms said: ‘‘It is not hard to compose, but what is fabulously hard is to leave the superfluous notes under the table.’ A sophisticated tourbillon complication is complemented by high-quality traditional finishing and decoration, conveying a sense of high quality that is only enhanced by the weight and magnificent shape of the 40 mm platinum case. This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful pages in the brand’s history.

ABOUT THIS WATCH

The museum spirit is most clearly expressed in the early Torus collection, which was given the new name Toric around the year 2000. This is reflected in the design of the Toric Tourbillon, particularly in the ribbed decoration of the bezel and the edge of the caseback. The multi-level architecture of the bezel and caseback creates a symmetrical case profile when viewed from the side, while from the front the stepped shape of the bezel is emphasized by two rings with finely crafted ribs. The wide bezel required for this design also allowed the brand to follow the trend for large watches that emerged and gained momentum in the late 1990s, as it enabled a harmonious design with calibers that had previously been developed with the aim of producing smaller watches.

The Toric Tourbillon was introduced around the year 2000. The earliest examples we have found are marked with the case number 41xx, which falls within this period. It was the first tourbillon wristwatch from the young brand, which had only been founded four years earlier. Michel Parmigiani’s concept of ‘museum spirit’ watches seems to be reflected in this model, whose production was limited only by the brand’s capacity. It looks like a special exhibition piece with an openworked dial that shows the caliber and the tourbillon at their best. The Toric Tourbillon was only produced in rose gold (Ref. PF000383) or platinum (Ref. PF000384; the present watch), while high-carat models with baguette diamond-set bezel are very rare. In addition, the brand produced extremely rare bespoke one-off pieces with the caliber engraved by hand on the dial side.

Like many other early models in the brand’s collection, the Toric Tourbillon was fitted with a third-party movement. In this case, it was Girard-Perregaux with its famous ‘three-bridge caliber’ GP9900. Parmigiani Fleurier used the movement-blanks without transforming them into the iconic three gold bridge design, so it is hard to recognize the origin of Girard-Perregaux in the Toric Tourbillon without having a clue. One feature of the GP9900 caliber, inherited from the PF280 caliber, is the reversed setting of the hands. For this reason, the hour hand is positioned above the minute hand and not the other way around, as is normally the case.

The PF280 caliber benefits greatly from this arrangement. It allows for an incredibly attractive design with a large barrel bridge in the upper part and plenty of space for the tourbillon in the lower part of an openworked dial. Polished chamfers separate these two zones with an artfully curved line. The arrangement is perfectly symmetrical and is accentuated by the vertical Côtes de Genève pattern. The exquisite polishing of the tourbillon parts and the tourbillon bridge, as well as the beautiful large jewel in the gold chaton of the tourbillon bridge, are symmetrically reflected in the upper part of the dial, where the arbor of the winding barrel is in turn set in a large jewel in the gold chaton, secured with three screws. This watch looks like a true museum piece and will certainly be an ornament to any prominent watch collection. 

SPECIFICATION

RefPF000384
D=40mm
GlassSapfire glass
FunctionsTourbillon, hours, minutes
DialOpen-worked dial
Case materialPlatinum
MovementMechanical manual-winding
CaliberPF280

DELIVERY & RETURNS

We offer worldwide delivery on all of our watches.

If ordering from Switzerland or Europe, your watch will be sent the same working week. The courier will depend on the value of the watch, with all watches delivered the next working week.

If ordering from outside Europe, delivery will depend on the choice of courier and destination.

You can cancel your order without giving any reason, within 14 days from the day the watch has been delivered to you.

WARRANTY

All of our pre-owned watches have undergone thorough mechanical inspections, including being ultrasonically cleaned, serviced and resealed if appropriate and tested for at least four days, to ensure they meet our highest timekeeping standards.

Our pre-owned and vintage watches, unless stated otherwise, are covered by a full or a limited twenty-four month warranty. For example, due to their age, some vintage watches should not be subjected to the same conditions as when they were new.

All of our new watches are covered by the warranty from the original manufacturer. Please contact us for further information.

Please see our Terms & Conditions for further information.

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